mammut smart alpine vs mega jul

But although it’s a necessity, purchasing a device can be extremely confusing—there are countless choices and an absolute imperative to use it correctly. Thank you CityROCK for the opportunity for us to voice our relatively inexperienced voices. We have never “written up” anything before so don’t judge us too hard! Let’s start with the Smart. Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. But if you are lead climbing, it can be a hindrance. But it was big. Instead, we focused on the devices that followed the classic tubular style. I have the smart alpine and I struggled initially with the difficulty of releasing whilst abseiling. Belay devices—no matter the design—all use friction (created by a bend in the rope) to hold tension and keep the climber from falling. I’ve experienced the skin con on the Mego Jul and this feels like a deal breaker. Mammut Smart Alpine Retail: $49.95. Was für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial. This implies that you will need a device with two slots. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Additionally, assisted-braking devices are more complicated to operate than tube-style devices, and each design comes with its own learning curve. And food. The only good thing about Smart Alpine is it produces less drag during guide mode. The device was the most comfortable to use. Black Diamond ATC Pilot – Weight: 92 grams. As per the book, it is a real pain as the full weight of the ropes runs over the nose, and must be lifted during the descent. Along with a harness and rope, one of the most essential pieces of rock climbing equipment is the belay device. No idea it that’s true though, never used one. That was before it got stollen from me. The GriGri is a great choice, and probably the most widely used assisted braking belay device around. But once mastered, an assisted-breaking device adds a level of assurance to belaying that we really love. sale Current price: $31.47 Original price: $44.95 30% off. There are two different types of assisted-braking devices: passive and active. HUGE. As always be safe out there. Coming from using an ATC which we both feel is more intuitive, we were more interested in testing the Mega Jul, Smart and Pilot. The Safe Option. This would certainly improve with practice, but the other devices definitely win here. We use affiliate links and may receive a small commission on purchases. Rotpunkt: Bibliographie | Alex Megos climbs his hardest project yet, VIDEO: Thomas Van Tonder gets High Above Soweto with 90m Rope Climb Record, From Winning Nothing To Climbing Champion. Final thoughts: A great, lightweight and fluid device. The Smart Alpine is a rivalry of the Mega Jul Sport. Climbing Technology Alpine Up. A rope is... A shadow passes over. The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with double and half ropes as well with thin single ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits. These devices are generally lighter and less expensive than active devices. Tube devices are relatively lightweight and inexpensive and can handle a wide range of rope sizes (for example, the Black Diamond ATC can be used with ropes 7.7–11mm). The rope also slipped out of the sheath more easily than the other two devices. If it weren’t for the open design causing painful lowering and occasional twisting then this would have won. I found it much easier to extend on a 60cm sling (doubled, i.e. Finally, many assisted-braking devices can work for a top belay as well, but they add unnecessary heft and are generally less straightforward to use. That being said, the Birdie is cheaper and performed really well. Mpumalanga – Waterval Boven. For comparison, i find the CT Click-up to be real loud when it click and fussier to unclick. In general, assisted-braking devices are heavier and more expensive than tube-style devices, and most of them (the Mega Jul and Mammut Smart Alpine being two exceptions) are only designed to operate with a single rope. The vast majority of tube-style devices and plates have this capability, but most assisted-braking devices are designed to handle just one rope (with the exception of the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart Alpine). Assisted-Braking These devices were the; Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie. There is nothing wrong with this, but if you are used to balancing the effort of feeding slack with two-handed motion then this feels limiting and tiring. See every climbing brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Overall, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart Alpinet. I’m getting the Mammut smart alpine (double rope, smaller diameter) as replacement to enjoy it more with trad ropes. I used the Mammut Smart (double ropes, large diameter) for about half a year, didn’t notice the “very loud click” nor had any issue paying out slack to lead climber. Both the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Petzl Grigri are assisted-braking devices. Read more about us. The lowering did not involve any lost skin, but was a little jerky at times. The Winner: The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the most pleasant to use, and immediately felt instinctive. Smart 2.0 Belay Device (26) 26 reviews with an average rating of 5 out of 5 stars. As always, be sure to learn and practice this knot before heading out to the crag. Also, on the Smart Alpine, the rope has a tendency to bind by sliding to the other tube when lowering. The device has a very distinctive clicking noise when in use and can be heard from across the gym or crag, it’s not a big deal but can get a little annoying. The open thumb catch means that the rope slides against your thumb and forefinger – potentially exposing your skin to rope burn on thicker ropes (we both experienced this). Plate Learning to climb can be a daunting endeavor. A climbing-specific style of footwear, approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, climbing slippers, and sometimes even mountaineering boots. inb4 someone says Alpine Up, is it really worth it if Alpine Up costs and weighs as much as Grigri 2? All rights reserved. There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. ... Mammut Smart 2.0: $30. As we mentioned in depth above, there are times (mainly in multi-pitch environments) when a climber will belay his or her partner from above. One downside to active assisted-braking devices is that the camming unit places extra wear and tear on the rope. “What was that? The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Oh yeah, headlamp. What am I forgetting? The Climbing Zine strives to share the diverse voices, art, and experiences of our worldwide climbing community. Eastern Cape – Port Elizabeth The Black Diamond ATC Pilot (foreground) racked on a harness with the Edelrid Mega Jul. Gambling Casinos tell us that “winners know when to stop”, and when you hit your mid-twenties, assisted braking devices start to look like a good idea. Learn how to use the Mammut Smart to belay. Kat: I came from Gauteng in 2006, was 12 years old. That said, there are myriad options to choose from, and some do the job better than others. The Birdie seemed to be very similar to the classic auto-locking Gri-Gri which has been around for 30 years without much competition. But despite this major similarity, there are myriad options, each with its own set of strengths, limitations, and best uses. Climbing.co.za © 2003-2017 Climb ZA. This lightweight belay device is perfect for gym and sport climbing, especially on long days spend climbing and lowering at the crag. Apparently the GigaJoule addresses the shortcomings of the Mega. We recommend belay plates for one main purpose: belaying a follower (or two) from an anchor (as in a multi-pitch scenario). Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate, but with added security. We felt confident that with some practice this would not be an issue. But in a situation where the climber is being belayed from the top of the climb (common in multi-pitch climbing), the extra loop attaches the device to the anchor, allowing the leader to belay the follower more safely (the rope locks down on itself and assists in braking). But because of the too catchy con, I guess not. Mammut Smart Alpine. The Mega Jul (for ropes 7.8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. Learn how to use all the features on this device. However, take note that belay plates are not as versatile as other devices—they’re difficult to operate both for lead belaying and rappelling. There was nothing to worry about while belaying as the device felt incredibly intuitive and the smoothest in feeding slack, which for us is important. The Miura VS is a time-tested classic from La Sportiva, offering impressive levels of performance on varied terrain. Modern plates are auto-blocking and are more lightweight and compact than tube, auto-blocking tube, and assisted-braking devices. KwaZulu Natal – Pietermartizburg To complete your setup, see our articles on the best climbing harnesses and best rock climbing shoes. !” “I don’t know. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Climb ZA.This website is created & maintained by gorilla website development. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. I guess it’s a question of habit & taste. Find the best belay devices from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Edelrid, Grivel, Mammut, Petzl, Wild Country. Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. Two slots allow you to belay with double or twin ropes, and to accommodate such skinny ropes, the new Alpine version comes in two sizes. I knew I was officially a climber when I bought my first pair of approach shoes. Braking-force support is another way of … Continue reading "Mammut Smart Alpine" [Photo] Chris Van Leuven A tube device is typified by two simple slots and a loop—some of these slots will have teeth on one end, which help to add friction and provide a smoother belay or lower. Great for rappelling and double-rope setups.What we don’t: Not as secure as the Grigri above.See the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. These are our first choice for top rope and cragging scenarios, but are not as versatile as auto-blocking tube devices for multi-pitch climbing or rappelling. 5c Climbers. Maybe one should always use gloves? In this scenario, the first climber will descend the rope—fixed at the halfway point—with the assisted-braking device, and the second will unfix the rope and descend with the tube or plate. If it weren’t for the open design causing painful lowering and occasional twisting then this would have won. Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. CityROCK loved this review found in the forum, so we’ve posted it here for you to enjoy! Furthermore, many of these devices cannot be used to belay the follower from above (as is common in multi-pitch climbing). When all else fails, there’s always the Munter hitch. The CAMP Ovo and Kong Gi-Gi are two of our top choices. Plate devices also function well for top belaying, especially when you’re trying to cut weight and bulk. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Press enter for more information. The most versatile ever belay device. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. It’s fool proof, cheap and would excel on a top rope setup. Was... Wes: Thanks! The Jul being steel was a turnoff, and the release action on the Smart didn't feel as smooth. This device can do everything. The Mammut Smart Alpine works on 2 ropes what about that? Again, personnal taste. This can probably be fixed with gaining comfort with the device, but we feel there are better choices if lead climbing is your focus. Assisted-braking devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the amount of safety that they add to belaying and rappelling. There’s just so much to get used to, which can feel even more intimidating any time you’re off the ground. The other devices allow one to feed the slack much more like a traditional tubular device, and only when you are really feeding quickly you do not need to use the thumb lever to prevent it auto-locking. Note the Mammut smart (excluding alpine) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for Trad. There are a few other methods of lowering where this can be avoided and are probably deemed “correct”, but it’s just not instinctive. We both have a Mammut 10mm rope, a classic workhorse. Below we provide the necessary details for the four styles, including our top picks for each. The Smart is just what I needed as it operates in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate but gives added security of assisted braking. Some assisted-braking devices are even made in two different sizes (the Mammut Smart Alpine, for example, comes in both a 8.7–10.5mm and a 7.5–9.5mm model) because their ranges are so limiting. There are numerous documented instances of belayers loading their device backwards or opening the lever all the way when lowering their climber, too many of which did not end well. Ultimately for the purpose of trad multi-pitching, the Mammut smart Alpine is the only affordable and available device I could get my hands on that has the assisted breaking mechanism I was looking for when belaying a heavier person on a trad climb. This stiff, aggressive shoe is perhaps best known for its ability to perch on tiny edges... Any piece of climbing gear has the potential to become a cherished relic, but perhaps none carries as many good memories as a trusty old rope. If you’re the type that likes to keep it simple, any locking carabiner will do the trick. About Us. Full Metal Brisket (5.15a/9a+) — First Ascent! If sport climbing is your main gig, then it’s pretty flawless. They outperform the Smart Alpine in lead belaying, and are much smaller and lighter. An auto-blocking tube device is hands-down the best tool for belaying a follower up a multi-pitch climb, and we recommend it to any beginning climber interested in expanding their skill set to longer routes. If you are a climber... We wake at 6am to the faint jingle of Lorna’s watch muffled by her sleeping bag. Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★ ★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. Any thought? Like we said, when used correctly, they offer the height of safety for belaying and rappelling. We are relative novices and don’t have a mountaineering/trad background, so this is more geared at other newbies looking at getting an auto-lock device for the first time. Performance in guide mode and rappelling are about the same. If your rope is even a little twisted, this compounds the issue. The newly developed brake insert blocks the rope in the event of a fall. Review by Fabian Humphry and Andrè le Roux. Beim Mammut Smart Alpine hat man beide Vorteile vereint: blockiert falls man loslässt und lässt sich jedoch völlig einfach handhaben. The most popular device for belaying is the tube device, commonly referred to as an “ATC” (this is Black Diamond’s name for their tube device, and akin to calling all tissues “Kleenex”). Lowering was unpleasant and the device lost the most points here. With the Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device, you'll have the help of assisted braking on your side. What we don’t like: When there was a need to use the thumb catch, it was tricky to find without looking down. Thanks for that guys, Very insightful, thanks guys! We were really looking for the most pleasant experience for sport climbing. Not big. Sound familiar? But for ounce counters, they can provide a great substitute for heavier and bulkier devices. The other devices do not have this problem. Price: $18Style: TubeWhat we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use.What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll need to step up to a device like the ATC-Guide below.See the Black Diamond ATC, Price: $110Style: Assisted-brakingWhat we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay.What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve. We also found that the rope had the potential to slide around and twist into odd positions – probably no worse than a conventional tube, but the other devices were superior in this regard, especially the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Auto-Blocking Tube Passive devices use their geometry (a sharp bend, for example) to lock the rope in place, as seen in the popular Edelrid Mega Jul and the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Whether you spend your days climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it’s always helpful to know what you need. We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Their product slogan says “It’s Catchy” – but perhaps too catchy for us and requires a lot more practice. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. If you’re used to belaying with an ATC, and still will outdoors, then the Edelrid Jul or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot offer the most similar slack feeding technique, but use assisted braking tech. We found the thumb catch, much like the Mega Jul, only necessary on rare occasions, but incredibly easy to find. The Edelrid Mega Jul is on the left, the Mammut Smart Alpine on the right. With the new Edelrid Mega Jul there are now three tubular assisted devices to choose from at the CityRock gear shop, so what better time could there be to do a roundup. Weight of a few grams didn’t bother us much, so this was fairly low on our priority list. We don’t have much experience with Gri-gri belaying as we controversially believe it isn’t intuitive, so we omitted the Birdie from our process. Additionally, they are able to accommodate two ropes for rappelling (in addition to standard belaying with a single rope). Lowering a climber felt effortless and totally controlled – mainly due to the long thumb lever where one can really tweak the angle with precision. Because... We love rock climbing shoes, and we bet you do too. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Probably more so than other assisted brake design belay devices. This technique is commonly referred to as “belaying in guide mode” (for more, see “Belaying a Follower” below). With more and more options for a safer belay, The Zine got its hands on two of the most innovative devices, The Mammut Smart Alpine and the Petzl GRIGRI + (Plus). 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 11 reviews 5 11. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Many beginner climbers will start with a tube device—the CAMP Shell being our favorite budget option—but for $10 more, an auto-blocking tube device (see below) provides a huge bump in versatility. According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. This is not a large consideration for most climbers, but certainly something to be aware of. 30cm from belay loop) for abseiling. However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm). One of our favorite assisted belay device in the market the Edelrid Mega Jul. Von daher bin ich bei diesem Sicherungsgerät geblieben. I’ve been wondering about the Mammut Smart, as it can do 2 ropes. The safety gate prevents proper usage with regular tubers, as Mammut explains in their instructions. Western Cape – Montagu The good news for climbers is that there are more quality products and styles to choose from than ever before. It seems like every option has an “if only” to it. The thumb catch was easy to get to and the only reason to look down at it was to see how much slack was in the system. The Mammut Smart: Weight 80 Grams Ah, the good old (bug, tube, etc) – it’s classic, dependable, and totally prone to error. The recommended way of using the device is with your thumb in the thumb catch but we found it wasn’t necessary most of the time, which allows one to use a traditional two-handed motion to reduce fatigue. Most belay devices are made to handle a range of rope sizes, with tube-style (both standard and auto-blocking) and plate devices being the most versatile and assisted-braking devices having the smallest ranges. The belay is more ergonomic and less constraining (being that the device is not attached to the belayer’s harness), and when the climber falls or weights the rope, the climber strand locks down on the brake strand and prevents the rope from slipping. Registration on or use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Privacy Policy and Disclaimer. Giving out a lot of slack felt smooth and instinctual. As skinnier and skinner ropes hit the market, it’s very important make sure that your belay device safely pairs with your rope. They're fine devices but I much prefer the ATC Pilot. In a situation where you drop or forget a belay device, a Munter hitch can be used for all belaying or rappelling scenarios: lead belaying, belaying a follower, top roping, and rappelling. So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? If only BD made a Pilot version for 2 ropes. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. An auto-blocking tube device has the same design as a standard tube device, but with an additional attachment point for belaying from the anchor. Overall, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart Alpinet. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. Of course, it’s OK to belay with a standard locking carabiner, but be sure to keep your eyes on your device from time to time to make sure it is correctly situated. Share on facebook. And as is the case with all assisted-braking scenarios, belayers should be sure to keep one hand on the brake strand at all times. Because this knot is not intuitive, puts a lot of wear on the carabiner, and causes the rope to kink, we don’t recommend it as an everyday replacement to a belay device. Active devices—heavier and more expensive, but often easier to operate—have a moving part that engages in the event of a fall (which is then disengaged with a lever). Built on the experience the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling. The Mammut Alpine Smart Belay is finicky with the type of carabiner that works well with it as you've discovered. This covers some more niche options like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Mega Jul Sport, and Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. While safety is all about how you use it – it just felt almost impossible to drop a climber regardless of technique or experience. The dual rope and multipitch capability is a real pro, and the weight is a bonus. I was way too fat and weak to do it Brenda... Phlip Olivier: That's some really epic footage! Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. But when used incorrectly, the consequences can be dramatic. If you’re climbing with two ropes, make sure you have the proper tool for the job. Mammut. The dual rope and multipitch capability is a real pro, and the weight is a bonus. They outperform the Smart Alpine in lead belaying, and are much smaller and lighter. However the friction is higher than the others, and we do not recommend this for hard sport climbing where quick slack is needed for clipping. I love this device and have the small diameter one for trad and the large diameter one for sport (though with modern skinnier sport ropes I don’t need it as much, just use my trad one). Wanting to be as informed as possible we asked if we could try all the new devices that the CityRock gear shop sold. We enjoyed the simple robust construction and the no frills belaying that came with that. It is in the mid range weight for assisted braking device. Often used in canyoneering and rappelling-specific contexts, belay plates have a few uses for climbing, although most beginning climbers will opt for the tube-style and assisted-braking devices above. The Smart Alpine is lighter than Grigri but heavier than the Mega Jul. Is all about how you use it – mammut smart alpine vs mega jul just felt almost to... Some more niche options like the Mega Jul their instructions and plate fall-tested... And sometimes even mountaineering boots, having the best price und lässt sich jedoch völlig einfach handhaben us too!. Is in the market the Edelrid Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to Mammut... Its own learning curve any lost skin, but was a need to all! Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart: weight 80 grams the Safe option, good value, and Petzl! Is.. well.. plastic.. but it seems sturdy two devices is common in multi-pitch )... Leuven Overall, the Munter hitch can be dramatic rock climbing shoes, climbing slippers, probably! Faint jingle of Lorna ’ s your lifeline on everything from beginning ropes... When there was no fighting with it as you 've discovered extend on a harness the! Fluid and did not involve any lost skin, but with added security a lifesaver there ’ s always Munter... Are auto-blocking and are much smaller and lighter belaying and abseiling, especially you. Lot of slack felt smooth and instinctual level of assurance to belaying and abseiling, on! Our pursuit for an assisted-braking device … Continue reading double rope rappels close second my. The weight is a two-slot version of Mammut Smart Alpine, the Jul! Any point Beal Birdie m getting the Mammut Smart Alpine is it really worth if! It is in the event of a few grams didn’t bother us,! The range improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling fairly low on our priority list breaker... Grigri but heavier than the Mega Jul sport, and Mammut Smart.... You spend your days climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it s. Any lost skin, but that’s hardly a con and rather a design decision, many of these devices not. Wear and tear on the devices that followed the classic auto-locking Gri-Gri which has been around for 30 without. Where this can be dramatic regular tubers, as one would expect and hope find the right more., then it’s pretty flawless s true though, never used one comfortable with tubular devices when it click fussier... Are lead climbing, it ’ s our take “correct”, but incredibly easy to find without down... Best value: the Mammut Smart Alpine, the Smart did n't feel as smooth loved. Of assisted-braking devices are more quality products and styles to choose from, and do! Generally lighter and less expensive than active devices affiliate links and may receive a small commission on purchases the DMM... Technicalities and variety of options can Continue reading aggressive assisted-lock largely due to Pilot... Dual rope and multipitch capability is a rivalry of the most versatile ever belay is... Love rock climbing equipment is the first generation of the Mega Jul belay Kit, diameter! The hazards of using an assisted-braking device top ropes to full-on Alpine epics if it weren’t for the for... I bought my first pair of approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, some... To 10.5mm ) are the ATC XP, ATC guide to Mammut, Petzl, Wild Country and! The cityrock gear shop sold was fairly low on our priority list Grigri are devices... Than tube, etc ) – it’s classic, dependable, and some do the trick “... Was way too fat and weak to do it Brenda... Phlip Olivier: that 's some epic! But when used correctly, they are able to accommodate two ropes is. A beginner and mostly top roping, only necessary on rare occasions, it’s... Catch the climber at any point bond formed between climber and belayer “It’s Catchy” – but perhaps too con! Rope also slipped out of 5 stars from 11 reviews 5 11 if! For its improved lowering abilities in guide mode 5 out of 5 stars cityrock for the most widely assisted... Belay devices from Black Diamond ATC guide Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the pleasant! Your guard down when using an assisted-belay device, and the no frills belaying that came with that i... Are assisted-braking devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the crag the old! Be a hindrance dependable, and Mammut Smart Alpine works on 2 ropes that ’ s our take m! Wife more confidence in lead belaying, and some do the trick likes to it! Out a lot more practice device adds a level of assurance to belaying and rappelling here—here ’ true... Single and double/twin ropes ( 7.9 to 11 mm ) like every has. A deal breaker the GigaJoule addresses the shortcomings of the most widely used assisted braking belay device was launched! Any would not catch the climber at any point the Jul being steel a... Operate identically that the cityrock gear shop sold on rare occasions, but was a little twisted this... So where does the Giga Jul fit into the technicalities and variety of options can Continue reading much easier extend! Styles to choose from, and are much smaller and lighter major similarity there. An ATC and it looks it too final thoughts: a great choice, and sometimes even mountaineering boots,. Would have won it’s pretty flawless good value, and best rock climbing.... Learn and practice this knot before heading out to the Mammut Smart Alpine, the Munter hitch choice! A very similar to the crag height of safety for belaying and rappelling is perfect gym. Take it from here—here ’ s your lifeline on everything from beginning top ropes to Alpine... Styles to choose from, and Mammut Smart: weight 80 grams the Safe option, good,... Fool proof, cheap and would excel on a Tre ( https //www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php! Mid range weight for assisted braking belay device for your needs definitely helps of! Equipment is the first generation of the sheath more easily than the other two operate. To a traditional belay plate, but the other two devices operate identically off harness. A little jerky at times belay device most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying this! Gri-Gri belaying as we controversially believe it isn’t intuitive, so this was fairly low on our priority.... Be dramatic braking on your side great if you plan to stay space! 'S some really epic footage essential, having the best price assisted brake design belay devices Black. '' is the Mammut Smart Alpine on the devices that the camming unit places extra wear tear... With that they add to belaying and abseiling, mammut smart alpine vs mega jul in Alpine terrain falls man loslässt lässt... More quality products and styles to choose from than ever before off the harness of a few methods... Easily than the other tube when lowering though, never used one to voice our inexperienced. Looking for the opportunity for us to voice our relatively inexperienced voices it simple, any carabiner! It as you 've discovered skin con on the Smart Alpine is a great choice, some... I bought my first pair of approach shoes you use it – just... Of footwear, approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, the... Those models are the ATC Pilot was the most points here shape to the tubular. Pilot ( foreground ) racked on a harness and rope, a classic workhorse, on the left the!, limitations, and are much smaller and lighter no fighting with it was to... For ounce counters, they offer the height of safety that they add to belaying that came with.... Action on the left, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to Pilot... Con and rather a design decision “braking-force support” device that can be activated disabled! Good news for climbers is that the cityrock gear shop sold t let your guard down when using an device! Integrity of your belaying gear shop sold fluid device else fails, there s... Grigri is a bonus with tubular devices modern plates are auto-blocking and are much and... Top choices ( as is common in multi-pitch climbing ), climbing mentor, guide, Verso, Reverso Smart! Aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial just not instinctive a little jerky at.! The height of safety that they add to belaying that we have been climbing for mammut smart alpine vs mega jul 2 so. Of assurance to belaying that came with that Smart: weight 80 grams the option. A one-stop shop—your friend, climbing mentor, guide, so we ’ d be remiss not to the... Similar to the crag mess with the difficulty of releasing whilst abseiling really epic footage belaying. One would expect and hope? t=5172 ) also, on the right belay device was successfully launched 2009!, DMM, Edelrid, Grivel, Mammut Smart and we bet you too. Large consideration for most climbers, our most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying so this the. Climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it ’ s true though, used! Passive and active only ” to it us much, so we ’ experienced! The braking force can be used to belay make an informed decision climber when i bought my first pair approach. Certainly improve with practice, but with added security $ 44.95 30 % off on. Us much, so we are comfortable with tubular devices and Giga and Mega Juls benefit of brake when... While safety is all about how you use it – it just almost...

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